A Quick Weekend in Santa Barbara Wine Country (and LA)

For years, several of my friends from the Los Angeles area have been enamored with the wines of Santa Barbara. They’ve allowed me to sample their stash, but many of these wineries are smaller production, so the wines don’t always make it out of California. Recently, my husband and I decided to do a quick jaunt to Santa Barbara wine country to delve a little further into what this region has to offer.

Quick Primer on Santa Barbara County Wine Country:

Santa Barbara County experiences warm days and very cool nights, along with fog and breezes from the Pacific Ocean. There are five distinct wine regions within the county:

  • Santa Maria Valley AVA (American Viticultural Area) – As the northernmost region of Santa Barbara County, it enjoys extremely complex soil conditions and diverse mesoclimates, allowing for Chardonnay and Pinot Noir to thrive. Santa Maria Valley was the first officially approved AVA in Santa Barbara County.
  • Santa Ynez Valley AVA – This AVA has very cool temperatures, becoming warmer toward the eastern parts of the region. Therefore, varietals vary from the fog and cool loving Pinot Noir in the west to Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, which flourishes in the warmer temperatures in the east. Some Italian and Rhône varietals also prosper in this AVA.
  • Sta. Rita Hills AVA – This is a relatively small appellation of approximately 100 square miles located within the western corridor of the larger Santa Ynez AVA. The ocean fogs usually burn off by mid-morning, with a few hours of sunshine, followed by winds. The influence from the Pacific along with the sedimentary soils found in Sta. Rita also creates an ideal location for Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.
  • Los Alamos Valley – This region experiences warm days and cool nights. Wines from this area will be indicated on the label as “Santa Barbara County.”
  • Happy Canyon of Santa Barbara – The varied soils and terrain of this region are best suited for growing Bordeaux varietals such as Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot and Sauvignon Blanc; however, Syrah and other Rhône varieties also do well in this region.

Maybe I wasn’t accustomed to having a burn on my palate when I tasted Pinot Noir, but of the wines we tasted, I found many to be a little too high in alcohol (15%+). Generally speaking, I tended to favor the Chardonnay from this region over the Pinot Noir (although I did enjoy some really lovely Pinots). Unfortunately, given our time parameters, we weren’t able to make it to all of the wineries on my “to do” list, but of those that we were able to visit, there were three that stood out. I have listed my favorites below.

Richard Longoria Wines

2935 Grand Avenue #B (tasting room)
Los Olivos, CA
805-688-0305

During his student days at Berkeley, Rick (Richard) Longoria experienced the wines of Sonoma and Napa. “Not knowing anything about the business… Rick decided to take a year off before entering law school, and traveled to South America…. It was during this trip that he came to realize that his heart was not in law, but rather [with] the possibility of working in a winery. When he returned, he sent dozens of inquiries to wineries looking for work. He got lucky and was hired as a rookie cellar man at one of his favorite wineries…” Rick shared with me that over the years, he continued to work on his craft of wine making, and in 1982, they [he and his wife] “started the brand as a part time endeavor. Then, we both gave up our day jobs to focus on making the business our sole source of income.” Longoria was born and they haven’t looked back.

Longoria excels among their peers. These wines exhibit elegance, finesse and a balanced degree of minerality. When savoring their wines, you will personally experience their quest for excellence. Rick disclosed to me, “My philosophy of winemaking is based on my belief that wine is a food, and as such, its greatest role is to accompany meals. Wines should therefore be made in a way that respects the uniqueness of each grape varietal, each vineyard site and the vagaries of each vintage. They should also be made to be well balanced so that the wine does not overpower the food. When one of my wines is paired with a meal and the food and the wine are both made more interesting and enjoyable as a result, then I have succeeded as a winemaker.”

The winery averages just about 3500 cases annually. The vineyards are located in Sta. Rita Hills and their wines are a must try on your visit to Santa Barbara.

Chardonnay Cuvée Diana
from Sanford & Benedict Vineyard, the oldest vineyard in Sta. Rita Hills and Rancho Santa Rosa

  • 2007 (ST 90, $36): fresh peaches, honey and smoky minerals with a nice balance of richness and acidity
  • 2008 (WE 94, $36): pears with maple syrup and nutmeg, honeysuckle, balanced acidity and weight, honeysuckle

2008 Pinot Noir Rancho Santa Rosa ($45): black and red berries with a hint of brett and vanilla; nice weight with silky tannins; one which seemed to fly under the radar, but one to watch

2007 Fe Ciega Vineyard (ST 91, WE 93, $54): cigar and sage spices; smooth but intense tannins; strong acidity

Foxen Vineyard

7200 Foxen Canyon Road
Santa Maria, CA
805-937-4251

When I polled my friends who had lived or are currently living in the Los Angeles area as to their Santa Barbara wine country faves, Foxen was at the top of each list, time and time again, as was Foxen’s rustic, but very endearing tasting room. Foxen recently added on a new, state-of-the-art, solar paneled tasting room, which is where I tasted their wines on my visit. I was a little bummed as I had been looking forward to experiencing their former tasting room, which had been lovingly described to me as “rustic as hell and looking more like a place you go to get pumpkins in October than a tasting room.”

Winemakers Bill Wathen and Dick Doré, otherwise known as the “Foxen Boys” like to say, “if you don’t know FOXEN, you don’t know Dick . . . or Bill.”

Bill’s background includes a degree in Fruit Science, specializing in vineyard management from Cal Poly University. In 1978, he became “a vineyard manager at Chalone Vineyard, where he was mentored by California wine pioneer and Chalone founder, Dick Graff. It was here that Bill learned traditional French winemaking techniques and appreciation for great Burgundies. Graff’s influence inspires Bill’s winemaking philosophy to this day.”

A man after my own heart, Richard, having “worked as a banker in the late sixties and seventies, quit his nine-to-five job and moved his family to Europe… Over the next year and a half, Dick traveled the back roads of France, Italy and Spain, where he developed his love of wine.” Dick eventually returned to his native Santa Barbara County, where he crossed paths with Bill and forged a partnership in making wine together. Dick’s wife, Jenny, is involved in the business as well, running marketing efforts in California and Florida.

2008 Chardonnay Bien Nacido Vineyard UU (WS 91, $32): tangy citrus, grapefruit and green apples with some floral aromas

2008 Pinot Noir Bien Nacido Vineyard-Block N ($52): blackberries and wild berries with some spice

Babcock

5175 East Highway 246
Lompac, CA
805-736-1455

In 1978, Walt and Mona Babcock sought “retreat from Walt’s dental practice and the rigors of being restaurateurs… Their search led them to purchase 110 acres of land on the western edge of the Santa Ynez Valley in Santa Barbara County, [which] at that time the area was considered a fledgling wine region. This inspired and prompted the Babcocks to plant a 25-acre vineyard in 1980. By the end of 1983, various notable winemakers had purchased Babcock fruit and made compelling wines… In 1984, Walt and Mona Babcock decided it was time to seize the opportunity to produce their own wine.” Armed with a degree in biology and a minor in chemistry from Occidental College, and working toward his master’s degree in food science, with an emphasis in oenology at UC Davis, their son Bryan entered the picture and has been making Babcock’s wine since 1984.

I was pleasantly surprised by their $30 Grand Cuvée, which we had with one of our meals.

2008 Grand Cuvée ($30) crème brulée, pineapple, pear, with balanced richness and some acidity

Melville Winery

5185 East Highway 246
Lompoc, CA
805-735-7030

Sad to say, I wasn’t able to make it to Melville this time around. However, it came very highly recommended by many, so I thought I should include this winery in the article. Perhaps next time?

Visiting Santa Barbara and short on time?

Many of the wineries of this region are too small or too removed to have their own tasting rooms, so they opt for presence in the town of Los Olivios. It is a charming, quaint little town. Jokingly, my friend Karl stated the proximity of so many tasting rooms in Los Olivios enables people “do their own pub crawl.” It depends on what your shtick is, but if you are staying in town, it is an elegant solution to sampling wines of the region without the rock-paper-scissors exercise to see who gets the driving responsibilities.

Los Olivos Wine Merchant & Café

2879 Grand Avenue
Los Olivos, CA 93441
805-688-7265

Not only does this place have a decent selection of wines, but the cafe is also a pleasant place to have lunch.

Note: For planning your wine trip to Santa Barbara County, this particular website was very useful: Santa Barbara County Vintners’ Association

A Burger in Santa Monica… I digress


While this article highlights some of the wines of Santa Barbara County, I feel it imperative to share this little nugget. If you happen to be in LA area, don’t miss having a burger at Father’s Office. As you can see from the photo, we hit their Santa Monica location after watching the sunset on the beach with a lovely glass of wine from Foxen.

Father’s Office

1018 Montana Avenue
Santa Monica, CA
310-736-2224

Run, don’t walk. This possibly one of the best three burgers in my life. My husband says it is his top burger…caramelized onion, bacon, Gruyère, Maytag blue cheese and arugula.

Treats to Blast that Funkytown Feel

I thought about posting this piece right before the holidays as a gift guide, but I decided it would be better to hold off until January. I live in New York, and it has been bloody cold and nasty. A recent NY Times article, Feeling that Winter Cold? Here’s Why by Stephen Chang, stated that the extreme cold weather we’ve been facing is the result of “Arctic oscillation, in which opposing atmospheric pressure patterns at the top of the planet occasionally shift back and forth, affecting weather across much of the Northern Hemisphere.” This high pressure system “is more pronounced than any other time since 1950.” Brrrrrrr….

What does that mean? (1) It takes a lot more motivation to leave the house. (2) Many have that funkytown/winter blues thing going on. This piece includes a variety of treats to buy for yourself to consume today or, in some instances, age. It can also be used as a gift guide for something a little unique. Or, if you want to have a party at your own house, here are some suggestions on ways to mix it up.

Since I am in the business, I have the luxury to taste a broad spectrum of wines and spirits. This list was inspired by some of the wines and spirits I tasted in preparation for my WSET Advanced Exam and from the 2009 New York Wine Experience. I deliberately excluded wines from the U.S. and many of my “go-tos” (Burgundy, Willamette Valley, Ribera del Duero, Rioja…) because we all need to try new things.

Some of the wines below include hyperlinks for direct purchase from Wine Access (WA), with whom I have a relationship.

Enjoy!!

SPIRITS

Bowmare Single Malt 12-year-old Scotch: $40, peat, sea salt, vegetal (40% alcohol by volume)

Boulard X.O. Calvados (Pays d’Auge): $86, spicy apple (40% alcohol by volume)

Calvados is an apple brandy from Normandy and Brittany (France). “While there are 11 distinct producing regions within the appellation of Calvados, the best comes from the Pays d’Auge.” (source “Exploring the World of Wines and Spirits,” Christopher Felden in association with WSET) There are 4 grades of Calvados: Fine/Trois Étoilles (>2 years old), Vieux Réserve (>3 years old), V.O./Vieille Réserve (>4years old) and X.O./Napoléon (>6years old). Use as an aperitif, digestif, in between meals or maybe with espresso.

1997 Rhum J.M. Vieux (Martinique): $90, pronounced caramel and raisins; dry, luxurious (48% alcohol by volume)

Martell X.O. Extra Fine Cognac: $120, pronounced caramel, sweet and spicy raisins (40% alcohol by volume)

RIESLINGS

2007 Schloss Wallhäusen “Two Princes” Riesling Qualitätswein (Nahe, Germany): $13, honey, peaches, apricots and citrus flavors; dry minerality

2006 Rocky Gully Dry Riesling (Frankland River, Western Australia): $18, gooseberry, quince, stone

2007 Joh. Jos. Christoffel Erben, Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Spätlese (Mosel, Germany): WS 92, $28, perfume, floral, orange blossom

LOIRE VALLEY

2007 Domaine des Forges Chaume: WS 93, $26 for 500mL, sweet, round and lush

Chaume is a village located in the western part of the Coteaux du Layon in the Loire Valley. It consists of 100% Chenin Blanc and the grapes are affected by noble rot/botrytis. (Sauternes and Tokaji Aszú are also impacted by noble rot, resulting in those luscious, honeyed flavors.)

2005 Domaine du Closel “Clos du Papillon” Savonnières: $35, honeysuckle, white peaches. Keep in mind it’s 14.5% alcohol by volume

Savonnières is a wine appellation in the Anjou region of the Loire Valley. The wine is 100% Chenin Blanc. Late harvest grapes can formulate into honeyed and smoky-mineral flavors. A good Savonnières  and cheese would be so amazing.

HUNGARY

2000 Aszú, The Royal Tokaji Wine Company 6 Puttonyos Betsek:– fig, flan

I wasn’t able to track down a 2000, but the 1999 Royal Tokaji Wine Co. Tokaji Aszu 6 Puttonyos Betsek (500 ml) ($99, WS 94) was not shabby.

Tokaji (Tokay) is a town in Hungary. Wines are made with Furmint and/or Hárslevelü grapes. Aszú means nobly rotted/botrytised grapes (similar process Sauternes and Chaume go through).

AND SOME PERENNIAL GO-TOs…

I refrained from doing some of my favorites such as Burgundy, Rioja, Ribera del Duero, Côte Rotie, Condrieu – I really could on forever here…  (although I tried the 1999 Ribera del Duero “Unico” Gran Riserva, Bodegas Vega Sicilia at the Wine Experience and the song from the Partridge Family, “I think I love you” started to play in my head immediately.) I felt I had to include some wines from Bordeaux, the Southern Rhône and Champagne because these are always crowd pleasers for gifts – and this is a treat segment after all.

BORDEAUX

2003 Pauillac, Château Pichon-Longueville Baron: ST 93/WS 95 (ranked #33 in WS top 100 list 2006), Bottle: $117 or Magnum: $200; beautiful ripe fruit and berries with that classic Left Bank hint of pencil shavings; smooth and lush

2000 Saint-Julien, Château Léoville Barton: ST 94/WS 97, Bottle: $199 or Magnum: $349 cherries, pencil shavings, spices… absolutely seamless. And oh – how it lingered.

And a few from Bordeaux for the super fancy people out there or maybe for that corporate account that just never seems to be happy, no matter what you do…

2001 Saint-Emilion, Château Cheval Blanc: ST 92-95/WS 924, $347, Power and elegance all in one package; raspberries, pencil shavings, bitter cocoa, a nice one to age

1998 Château d’Yquem Sauternes: ST 95/RP 95, Magnum: $500, Extraordinary. I came back for more three times at the Wine Experience. Orange peel, honey, creamy, perfection, bliss

SOUTHERN RHÔNE

2007 Chåteauneuf-du-Pape “La Crau,” Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe: ST 93/WS 95;  500mL: $35, Bottle: $69 or Magnum: $145, smoky cherries, tobacco and licorice

CHAMPAGNE

Bollinger Brut “Special Cuvée” Bottle: $75 or Magnum: $168, ST 91/WS 91, dominated by Pinot Noir (60%), nuttiness, ginger, spiced pears, toasty; will continue to get better over time

Krug Brut Champagne Grande Cuvée NV: ST 95/WS 93 $167, so lovely, so delish, an experience, like a scrumptious brioche with a hint of nutmeg

So there you go… Here’s a way to get out of funkytown.

Please note the following:

  • Wine prices are dynamic and therefore, subject to change. Prices are in competition via various vendors WA uses. The prices listed in the article are as of 1/15/10.
  • When indicated, ratings from ST came from WA and ratings from WS came from WS, which may result in some disparity between what WA lists for WS when you click on the link to purchase.

A Weekend in Portland and the Willamette Valley

WINERIES AND TASTING NOTES:
Overall, we found the 2007 wines to be leaner than those from 2005 and 2006. They are lovely, but I’d be choosy about the ones to cellar.

Domaine Drouhin

6750 Breyman Orchards Road, Dayton
+1-503-864-2700
www.domainedrouhin.com
You’ll find no airs of wine snobbery from this very famed family of Burgundy. These people were so lovely on our first visit that regardless of the wine, I would have purchased from them. And then… I tasted the elegant Laurène. This one is a must visit.

Patricia Green

15225 NE North Valley Rd., Newberg
+1-503-554-082
www.patriciagreencellars.comPatricia Green barrels
Located right next door to Robert Parker’s Beaux Frères, this winery was a beautiful find and benefitted from being some of the same land area but with wines a little lower in price point. The vineyard has both Jory (volcanic) and Willakenzie (marine sedimentary) soils which made for an interesting taste comparison. The whites were delicious and very reasonably priced for their quality. We also picked up a few of the Pinot futures. We met Patricia – she seemed like a blast and oozed with good chi – sort of Patricia Field in North Face gear, but without pink hair.

Whites:

  • 2006 Panama White, Estate Sauvignon Blanc ($45): lemony with minerality; was the highest rated white in Oregon at the time, per Steve Tanzer’s “The International Wine Cellar”; not cheap for a Sauvignon Blanc, but the flavor lingered
  • 2007 Chardonnay, Four Winds Vineyard ($20): great price point, Chablis-like clean with lemon zest

Pinots, Marine Sedimentary Soil (Willakenzie): We tended to favor the wines from marine sedimentary soil to the those from volcanic soil. The dark brown sandstone and shale Willakenzie soil has a slightly higher pH (5.9) than that of the dark reddish brown Jory soil (5.6). While there are many factors involved in the production of wine, overall, we found the marine sedimentary soil wines at Patricia Green to have a little more elegance, lingering spice and minerality.

  • 2007 Bonshaw Vineyard ($35 ,futures price): blueberries and toast; velvety and luscious
  • 2007 Estate Vineyard, Etzel Block ($45, futures price): planted adjacent to their neighbors at Beaux Frères and named in honor of the wine maker there, but a lot lower in price; smoky earthiness, strawberries, lingering minerality. white pepper

Pinots, Volcanic Soil (Jory):

  • “Block 1B” ($40, futures price): raspberries, roses, black licorice

Broadley Vineyard

(1.5 hours away from the main drag)
25158 Orchard Tract Road, Monroe
+1-541-847-5934
www.broadleyvineyards.com
With a few wines highly rated in years past, I called in advance to see if we needed an appointment to do a tasting. The owner (Craig) is the sweetest man. I felt like I was calling their house every time we spoke on the phone. It’s pretty far from the main drag in the Willamette Valley, so we opted to pass on the actual visit to the vineyard, but purchased a few of his wines from Ponzi’s store.

Ponzi

100 SW Seventh Street
+1-503-554-1500
www.ponziwines.com
Ponzi makes beautiful pinots. I’ve had various vintages of their Pinot Reserve Willamette Valley as part of our cellar over the years. We’ve only been to their wine bar where they offer flights from a wide variety of wine makers in the Willamette Valley. The tasting room is central to the main drag and a must do. This is where you need to hit when you’re rounding off your case(s) to ship back home.

Penner-Ash

15771 NE Ribbon Ridge Road Newberg
+1-503-554-5545
www.pennerash.com
We waited to get on their wine club list for almost 2 years. They have wonderful wines and always throw in a surprise or two. We were pleasantly surprised by their Riesling and Viognier this past time around. If you seek a comprehensive tour of a wine making facility in the Willamette Valley, this would be one I would add to my list.

  • 2007 Riesling ($24)
  • 2007 Viognier ($32): melon and pear with a creamy finish
  • 2006 Willamette Valley Pinot Noir: 500mL: $32 Bottle: $48, ST 89, baking spices and violets
  • 2006 Goldschmidt Vineyard Pinot Noir ($55):  my husband called this one “Mathias Elegant” probably because the hints of lavender at the end reminded him of home in south of France; raspberries, a hint of white pepper
  • 2006 Carabella Vineyard Pinot Noir ($55)
  • 2006 Dussin Vineyard Pinot Noir ($60): sweet spices, peppers, plums

Anne Amie

6580 NE Mineral Springs Rd., Carlton
+1-503-864-2700
www.anneamie.com
A nice little surprise… we ended up waiving in the Cuvée A and the Château Benoit in years past – both very reasonably priced and perfect for summer nights for our “house wines” of 2008. You really can’t go wrong with the quality and price point. The view from the tasting room is also special.

  • 2007 Cuvée A Amrite (Pinot Blanc, Riesling, Pinot Gris and Müller Thurgau,  $16): immediate minerality, lime and lemon zest, crisp; great price point/quality blend
  • 2006 Chåteau Benoit Pinot Noir ($18): very fruit forward