burgundy – Fava Beans And Chianti

Véronique Drouhin-Boss, Head Winemaker for Maison Joseph Drouhin and Domaine Drouhin

On my very first trip to the Willamette Valley (my pre wine-as-a-career days), I stopped by the tasting room at Domaine Drouhin. The people were just so lovely and cordial. I thought to myself, even if I don’t like these wines, I am going to purchase some because of my experience. Then, I found out that they were members of the Drouhin family who, after four generations in the wine industry are one of the three largest producers of wine in Burgundy. They were so gracious and understated, which made my visit all the more endearing. Oh, and did I mention that the wines are exceptional? I fell in love with the Laurène at first taste. It was elegant and sensual. I was hooked.

With 182.5 acres (73 hectares) and 90 appellations of mostly Grands Crus and Premiers Crus, Maison Joseph Drouhin is nothing short of impressive. They have presence in Chablis (95 acres/38 hectares), Côte de Nuits and Côte de Beaune (80 acres/32 hectares) and Côte Chalonnaise (7.5 acres/3 hectares). The caves and cellars span about 2.5 acres (1 hectare) and were built between the 13th and 18th centuries. In total, Domaine Drouhin, consists of 90 acres, primarily Pinot Noir, with 13.5 acres of Chardonnay planted right alongside. Combined, Maison Joseph Drouhin and Domaine Drouhin have 272.5 acres (109 hectares).

I recently had the privilege of spending some time with Véronique Drouhin-Boss, head winemaker for both Maison Joseph Drouhin and Domaine Drouhin. We’ll learn more about Véronique’s favorite wines right now, her foodie picks in both the Willamette Valley and Burgundy, what it was like to grow up in such a famed family in the wine industry, her accomplishments, her thoughts on recent vintages, and, for the truly hard core oenophiles, details on the viticulture and vinification of their wines.

Véronique on the Spot – Her Faves

Véronique travels quite a bit, but maintains her primary residence in Burgundy to have as much time as she can with her husband Michel and her three teenagers, Laurène, Louise and Arthur. She spends about one month during harvest in the Willamette Valley and returns to Oregon typically about 2 times afterward for bottling. I love wine. I love food. I was not going to let a golden opportunity go by without asking Véronique to comment on her favorites for both. I was also curious to learn if there was anything else Véronique was passionate about outside of the vine.

Her Favorite Wines Right Now

Domaine Drouhin typically produces four different wines each year, three of which were named after her children. Arthur is a Chardonnay. Laurène and Louise are both Pinot Noir. Personally, I have adored the elegance of the Laurène for many years now. Louise it is less available. Veronique calls it the cherry on the cake “la cerise sur le gâteau,” made in more of a Grands Crus style. Louise is very complex. I asked her what her three teenagers thought about having wines named after them. She responded, “They think it is fun. They sometimes tease each other about which one tastes better.”

“Right now, I am really liking the 2006 Laurène (ST 91/WS 92, $65). I adore its elegance. It’s not too tannic or hard. I am very proud of the 2008 Arthur (2007 Arthur, ST 90, $27) too. As for Burgundy, Véronique loves the Chablis for its vibrancy, the Puligny-Montrachet for its elegance and the Beaune Clos des Mouches, especially the white, as it is unique and complex.” Beaune Clos des Mouches is an extraordinary little vineyard which has achieved mythical status for the Maison Joseph Drouhin. Beaune Clos des Mouches: 2007 Blanc ($95), 2006 Blanc (ST 90/WS 90, $91), 2005 Blanc (ST 89, $87); 2007 Rouge (ST 92, $85), 2006 Rouge (ST 91, $82) 2005 Rouge (ST 91/ WS 90 $92).

Favorite Places to Dine – Willlamette Valley and Burgundy

I asked Véronique where her favorite places to dine were in Oregon and Burgundy. While in Oregon, she said “I love going to Portland, but unfortunately, I don’t have much time to go. Some of our favorite restaurants in the Willamette Valley are Tina’s, Nick’s, The Dundee Bistro and Red Hills Provincial. Tina’s is consistently good. Nick’s is an Italian café with very good food. I like the Minestrone.” As for Burgundy, Véronique mentioned “Le Caveau des Arches. We go often. The chef is great, as is the wine list. It’s in a 15th century salon. It doesn’t have a [Michelin] star, but it’s star caliber. We are always welcome and it’s very good. Some of our other favorites are Je Jardin des Remparts and Le Bistrot du Bord de l’Eau.”

Activities Outside of the Vine

With 2 vineyards 8,500 Kilometers (5,300 miles) apart, 272.5 acres (109 hectares) of vines to make into wine and three teenagers, Véronique clearly has a lot to keep her busy. I read that she enjoyed gardening. I asked her if that was a euphemism for viticulture. She laughed and said “no” and that she truly enjoyed gardening outside of the vine, but ended up having a few uninvited visitors. “I hold true to my organic principles, but I end up growing a lot of food for the rabbits. They eat all of our vegetables and flowers, but what can I do? They are adorable to watch. My kids make fun of me.” Véronique also enjoys playing the piano (although she doesn’t have the opportunity to do this as frequently as she’d like), listening to classical music and getting together with friends.

A Family Legacy

What’s it like Growing up “Drouhin”?

The business has been in the family for 4 generations, starting with Véronique’s great-great-grandfather, Joseph. It is truly a family endeavor. While Véronique is tasked with the winemaking, each member of the family plays an integral role in the company. Frédéric drives the development of the company as President of the Executive Board. Philippe manages both estates. Laurent runs the U.S. marketing effort. Their father Robert, the visionary, ran the company from 1957-2003 and is now the President of the Control Board.

When you meet a member of the Drouhin family, it is apparent that their work ethic and commitment to the vine runs deep. I asked Véronique what it was like to grow up in such a household.

She responded, “When I was little, I thought it was the same for every kid – having these amazing bottles and sometimes enjoying them in a 14th century cellar, but then I realized how special and fortunate we were. My father was very smart. He built up our curiosity for wine. He’d say ‘let’s taste this one and try to find what it is all about.’ We’d sometimes have special wines on our birthday. Wine is for sharing and it is an experience. We were always happy to share.”

“I have learned so much over the years from lots of people in the industry who were of my father’s generation. They were always very generous with me. We had a sort of a ‘good grandfather’ named Henri Jayer. [He was a pioneer for many commonly used ideas in winemaking today (1) winemaking begins with the terroir and (2) he strongly opposed the use of chemicals.] Henri would always say ‘use your common sense.’ We had lots of chitchat. He shared wines with us and told stories to go along with these wines. It was special.”

Véronique, Creating a Legacy of Her Own

Under her father Robert’s leadership, the first woman oenologist in Burgundy, Laurence Jobard, ran their oenology lab. Véronique worked with Laurence from 1986-2005 and she still considers Laurence one of her mentors. Laurence and Véronique are trailblazers in an industry that is still fairly male dominated. Véronique commented, “Although I am still a minority, I can see a lot more women winemakers. Keep in mind, these are very small estates [in Burgundy]. It can be a physically taxing job involving lots of lifting and physical labor. That definitely influences a person’s career choice. When my father initially interviewed Laurence, she was very young. He realized what a great palate she had and how talented she was. Our company kept growing. He relied more on her and her abilities. She maintained the style [of the wine]. Interestingly enough, with four brothers, I am the one who ended up having the desire to make wines. Winemaking is very demanding. It is very hard work. I worry all year round about the agriculture. It is an ongoing process and I can’t turn it off. Technology makes things a bit easier because even with extensive travel, I can always get in touch.” Laurence retired in 2006. Since 2006, Véronique works closely with Jerome Faure-Brac who is also integral to the family’s business. Véronique has a degree in Oenology from the University of Dijon, with an Advanced degree for her work with Pinot Noir.

130 Years and Counting

This is a momentous year for the Drouhin Family. “This year, we will celebrate 130 years, going back to 1880. To celebrate, we might do something unique and special. We are thinking about making a special cuvée using a 1571 press. It would be a lot of work, but it would be very special working like the monks from the 16th century.”

And now… for the Hard Core Oenophiles….

Vintages – Véronique Weighs in

“Before going into the details of each of the recent vintages, even with the different soil, various weather patterns and the fact that Burgundy and the Willamette Valley are 8,500 Kilometers (5,300 miles) apart, remarkably, in most instances, when we’ve had a good year in one location, the same has held true for the other. Burgundy and Bordeaux are situated in the same country and are not that far apart relatively speaking, and this does not hold true.

2003 warm, same in both locations
2005 elegant and fabulous for both locations
2006 more challenging
2008 high acidity – good structure, tiny crop. In Oregon, the crop size was not as small as it was in Burgundy.
2009 large crop, much softer
2008 and 2009 were both very good vintages.”

Typically, when people think Burgundy, they think Pinot Noir or the beautiful whites of the Côte d’Or. I feel it necessary to highlight Chablis because if you haven’t tried it, you are missing an opportunity. 2008 was considered to be one of the greatest vintages for Chablis in the past 25 years. The Drouhin Family has about 100 acres in Chablis and recently launched a new line of labels with the Chablis Drouhin Vaudon. Chablis is 100% Chardonnay. “Unless it is a very warm year like 2003, all of our Chablis go through 100% malolactic fermentation. The Chablis and Chablis Premier Crus are all steel fermented with no oak at all. The Grand Crus from Chablis are barrel fermented and barrel aged, but with no oak. The concept of ‘mineral’… its true origin comes from Chablis. The vinification is meant to reflect the terroir. In Chablis, there is the highest level of Kimmeridge clay (the billions of petrified shells from the Jurassic era.” Try it. You’ll like it and you’ll thank me later.

A Day in the Life of a Winemaker

“My schedule is very different during harvest. If not traveling, typically, I work until 11AM. We taste from 11-12:30PM and we taste many different things. For example, we see if final cuvées need to be adjusted, or taste some the wines proposed. I have lunch – very French – and then I come back to the office. Each day is different. Tomorrow, I am spending the whole morning tasting white and reds. I also give some of the private tours and do some technical tastings because it is easier for me to talk about the wines since I am the winemaker. It takes time for these visits, but we try to make time because it is always a pleasure for me.”

Viticulture

The Drive Toward Organic and Biodynamic

Robert Drouhin was one of the first in Burgundy to embrace “culture raisonnée” (doing away with pesticides). “Early on, my father realized that the quality of the wine comes from the terroir and culture raisonnée was very important to obtain this. My brother Phillipe went a step further. We always work on the terroir… It is our mission. We need to make sure our wines reflect the terroir… At Maison Joseph Drouhin, we are biodynamic at all estates. At Domaine Drouhin, it is a live program where our current vineyard manager’s goal is oriented toward full adoption of organic practices, but we are not there yet.”

Willamette Valley versus Burgundy

Although Oregon and Burgundy lie on the same parallel, the weather and soils are very different. Oregon is dry and warm most of the summer and Burgundy has its share of rain and hail. Oregon is very iron rich (Jory soil) because of the volcanic influence. Burgundy tends to have more chalk. Véronique elaborated, “Oregon has that cool breeze. Pinots need warm days and cool nights. It’s almost easier in Oregon than Burgundy because of the unwanted rain. The rains in Burgundy can sometimes bring about rot. Soil is very different in both areas. Our vineyard in the Willamette is 100% Jory soil versus the soil in Burgundy, which is limestone and marl. As such (for Pinot Noir), for color, our Oregon wines are darker in color than our Burgundies, which tend to be more ruby or reddish in color. On the nose, the terroir imparts more black fruits versus the red fruits you’d find on the nose of our Burgundies. There’s also a spiciness in Oregon wines that you rarely find in young Burgundy wines.”

Densely Planted Vineyards

In Burgundy, the Drouhins densely planted their vines (approximately 5,000 vines per acre in Burgundy). In Oregon, the same holds true with approximately 3,100 vines per acre (vs. 800-1,400 in the rest of the Willamette Valley). They believe this amplifies the imprint of the terroir on the grapes. This ends up being a very costly endeavor, with lower yields, more vines and therefore, increased manual labor. Using their vineyards in Oregon as an example, each vine yields something like only ¾ of a bottle, yet their wines are not that much higher in price than many others from that area. I asked Véronique how they were able to achieve this. She replied, “It’s true. Our vineyard management adds to the cost. The viticulture is huge on the bottom line. If the end goal is the quality, we believe that’s the best thing to do. We care to ripen to perfection. Until the winery in the U.S. started to sell wine directly, we were barely profitable, but it was our decision.”

The Drouhin Family also cultivates its own plants and rootstocks. Véronique explained, “We were limited when we first arrived in the Willamette Valley. We use many different clones – as many as we can provided they are good. We believe that if you mix different qualities, it adds more complexity. For example, while some clones might be light on terroir, it may add structure to the wine. Other clones might be heavier on terroir. Others may provide elegance.”

Leaf Pulling

“We learned more about leaf pulling from Oregon. We are now using this technique in both Oregon and Burgundy. For Burgundy, it is not as much for the sun exposure, it helps more with the rot problem. If you take the leaves above the clusters there will be less development of rot. In Oregon, leaf pulling is done more for sun exposure. We need to be very careful to prevent burning.”

Vinification

I asked Véronique what imprint she was trying to leave on the wines. She commented, “It’s not really my imprint. I produce what I like. I like elegant – not big – but age worthy. If working with Grands Crus or Premiers Crus, it needs to reflect the vintage. If it is an age worthy vintage, it needs to reflect this. As an example, Bourgogne Blanc is not to be kept for a long time, so this needs to be reflected. Our wines need to have nice texture, fruit and elegance.”

Véronique Drouhin-Boss, a classy, elegant and talented winemaker.

Treats to Blast that Funkytown Feel

I thought about posting this piece right before the holidays as a gift guide, but I decided it would be better to hold off until January. I live in New York, and it has been bloody cold and nasty. A recent NY Times article, Feeling that Winter Cold? Here’s Why by Stephen Chang, stated that the extreme cold weather we’ve been facing is the result of “Arctic oscillation, in which opposing atmospheric pressure patterns at the top of the planet occasionally shift back and forth, affecting weather across much of the Northern Hemisphere.” This high pressure system “is more pronounced than any other time since 1950.” Brrrrrrr….

What does that mean? (1) It takes a lot more motivation to leave the house. (2) Many have that funkytown/winter blues thing going on. This piece includes a variety of treats to buy for yourself to consume today or, in some instances, age. It can also be used as a gift guide for something a little unique. Or, if you want to have a party at your own house, here are some suggestions on ways to mix it up.

Since I am in the business, I have the luxury to taste a broad spectrum of wines and spirits. This list was inspired by some of the wines and spirits I tasted in preparation for my WSET Advanced Exam and from the 2009 New York Wine Experience. I deliberately excluded wines from the U.S. and many of my “go-tos” (Burgundy, Willamette Valley, Ribera del Duero, Rioja…) because we all need to try new things.

Some of the wines below include hyperlinks for direct purchase from Wine Access (WA), with whom I have a relationship.

Enjoy!!

SPIRITS

Bowmare Single Malt 12-year-old Scotch: $40, peat, sea salt, vegetal (40% alcohol by volume)

Boulard X.O. Calvados (Pays d’Auge): $86, spicy apple (40% alcohol by volume)

Calvados is an apple brandy from Normandy and Brittany (France). “While there are 11 distinct producing regions within the appellation of Calvados, the best comes from the Pays d’Auge.” (source “Exploring the World of Wines and Spirits,” Christopher Felden in association with WSET) There are 4 grades of Calvados: Fine/Trois Étoilles (>2 years old), Vieux Réserve (>3 years old), V.O./Vieille Réserve (>4years old) and X.O./Napoléon (>6years old). Use as an aperitif, digestif, in between meals or maybe with espresso.

1997 Rhum J.M. Vieux (Martinique): $90, pronounced caramel and raisins; dry, luxurious (48% alcohol by volume)

Martell X.O. Extra Fine Cognac: $120, pronounced caramel, sweet and spicy raisins (40% alcohol by volume)

RIESLINGS

2007 Schloss Wallhäusen “Two Princes” Riesling Qualitätswein (Nahe, Germany): $13, honey, peaches, apricots and citrus flavors; dry minerality

2006 Rocky Gully Dry Riesling (Frankland River, Western Australia): $18, gooseberry, quince, stone

2007 Joh. Jos. Christoffel Erben, Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Spätlese (Mosel, Germany): WS 92, $28, perfume, floral, orange blossom

LOIRE VALLEY

2007 Domaine des Forges Chaume: WS 93, $26 for 500mL, sweet, round and lush

Chaume is a village located in the western part of the Coteaux du Layon in the Loire Valley. It consists of 100% Chenin Blanc and the grapes are affected by noble rot/botrytis. (Sauternes and Tokaji Aszú are also impacted by noble rot, resulting in those luscious, honeyed flavors.)

2005 Domaine du Closel “Clos du Papillon” Savonnières: $35, honeysuckle, white peaches. Keep in mind it’s 14.5% alcohol by volume

Savonnières is a wine appellation in the Anjou region of the Loire Valley. The wine is 100% Chenin Blanc. Late harvest grapes can formulate into honeyed and smoky-mineral flavors. A good Savonnières and cheese would be so amazing.

HUNGARY

2000 Aszú, The Royal Tokaji Wine Company 6 Puttonyos Betsek:– fig, flan

I wasn’t able to track down a 2000, but the 1999 Royal Tokaji Wine Co. Tokaji Aszu 6 Puttonyos Betsek (500 ml) ($99, WS 94) was not shabby.

Tokaji (Tokay) is a town in Hungary. Wines are made with Furmint and/or Hárslevelü grapes. Aszú means nobly rotted/botrytised grapes (similar process Sauternes and Chaume go through).

AND SOME PERENNIAL GO-TOs…

I refrained from doing some of my favorites such as Burgundy, Rioja, Ribera del Duero, Côte Rotie, Condrieu – I really could on forever here… (although I tried the 1999 Ribera del Duero “Unico” Gran Riserva, Bodegas Vega Sicilia at the Wine Experience and the song from the Partridge Family, “I think I love you” started to play in my head immediately.) I felt I had to include some wines from Bordeaux, the Southern Rhône and Champagne because these are always crowd pleasers for gifts – and this is a treat segment after all.

BORDEAUX

2003 Pauillac, Château Pichon-Longueville Baron: ST 93/WS 95 (ranked #33 in WS top 100 list 2006), Bottle: $117 or Magnum: $200; beautiful ripe fruit and berries with that classic Left Bank hint of pencil shavings; smooth and lush

2000 Saint-Julien, Château Léoville Barton: ST 94/WS 97, Bottle: $199 or Magnum: $349 cherries, pencil shavings, spices… absolutely seamless. And oh – how it lingered.

And a few from Bordeaux for the super fancy people out there or maybe for that corporate account that just never seems to be happy, no matter what you do…

2001 Saint-Emilion, Château Cheval Blanc: ST 92-95/WS 924, $347, Power and elegance all in one package; raspberries, pencil shavings, bitter cocoa, a nice one to age

1998 Château d’Yquem Sauternes: ST 95/RP 95, Magnum: $500, Extraordinary. I came back for more three times at the Wine Experience. Orange peel, honey, creamy, perfection, bliss

SOUTHERN RHÔNE

2007 Chåteauneuf-du-Pape “La Crau,” Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe: ST 93/WS 95; 500mL: $35, Bottle: $69 or Magnum: $145, smoky cherries, tobacco and licorice

CHAMPAGNE

Bollinger Brut “Special Cuvée” Bottle: $75 or Magnum: $168, ST 91/WS 91, dominated by Pinot Noir (60%), nuttiness, ginger, spiced pears, toasty; will continue to get better over time

Krug Brut Champagne Grande Cuvée NV: ST 95/WS 93 $167, so lovely, so delish, an experience, like a scrumptious brioche with a hint of nutmeg

So there you go… Here’s a way to get out of funkytown.

Please note the following:

Wine prices are dynamic and therefore, subject to change. Prices are in competition via various vendors WA uses. The prices listed in the article are as of 1/15/10.
When indicated, ratings from ST came from WA and ratings from WS came from WS, which may result in some disparity between what WA lists for WS when you click on the link to purchase.

Burgundy: A Basic Lesson in Economics

Guess what? We’re not the only ones who think Burgundies are fabulous. To quote Michael Jackson, “you are not alone.”

It all comes down to the simple law of supply and demand. For good Burgundies, there is generally more demand than supply. French people like their wine, so there’s less to export to the non-Frenchies. Not everybody lives in Burgundy or is fortunate enough to have family to “visit” there, like me (muhahaha). By the time things are shipped out, we’re left with a smaller pool to choose from. Throw in the tariffs and shipping, and Burgundies can be pretty pricey. So, how do you get the best bang for your money?

I collected data from 5 highly regarded books on Burgundy, 8 websites where you can actually purchase wine from, 3 well respected wine tasting sites, my own experiences as well as those from some of my peers – whew… I then loaded it all into one massive spreadsheet. Voila… the beginnings of an optimization analysis. (I know, I am a complete freak show, but I can’t help it. It’s ingrained in me after all of those years in Investment Banking). You get to benefit from the fruits of my labor. Looking exclusively at wines that are either 100% Pinot Noir or 100% Chardonnay from the Côte d’Or, here are the questions I asked and then cross-referenced to produce the output below:

Who are some of the top producers – Maisons (grower and negociant) and then Domaines?
What terroirs allow me to find value?
Can I actually find these wines at a liquor store by my house?
Is the price of these wines between $20-40?

Drum roll please….

Top Producers:

Size Matters: Economies of scale… Take a look at a map of the Côte d’Or wine region. Now look at the following Maisons:

Maison Louis Jadot: Founded in 1859 with roots in the vineyards of Beaune dating back to 1826, this Maison is now owned by their previous US importer, the Rudy Kopf family. Their vineyards are scattered across 154 hectares (380.5 acres) in the Côte d’Or, Måconnais and Beaujolais.
Maison Bouchard Père et Fils: Their colorful history dates back to 1731. They are now owned by Henriot. With 129 hectares (321 acres) of vineyards (33 acres of Grands Crus and 183 acres of Premiers Crus), Bouchard is massive. I wrote an in depth article on Bouchard. To further illustrate my point above about the Frenchies keeping the goods for themselves, someone like Bouchard exports only 52% of their production. Bouchard produces between 3-3.5 million bottles per year. Um hello… that’s a little over 1.5 million bottles just for the Frenchies!
Maison Joseph Drouhin:In 1880, Joseph Drouhin founded his own wine company. Today, this domaine is comprised of 73 hectares (182.5 acres) of vineyards in Côte de Nuits, Côte de Beaune, Côte Chalonnaise and Chablis. The majority of these vineyards are classified as Premiers and Grands Crus. I originally met some of the family members on a trip to their vineyard in Oregon, Domaine Drouhin. They are the absolute loveliest people. I was able to catch up with Véronique Drouhin-Boss who is in charge of wine making at both Maison Joseph Drouhin and Domaine Drouhin while she was in New York yesterday and hope to follow-up with an article on their wine making philosophy in the near future. (If you trek out to the Willamette Valley, their Vineyard was one of my favorite ones.)

That’s 202 hectares (884 acres)! A Maison acts in both the negociant and grower capacity, so it makes wine from grapes grown on premises as well as grapes of other growers. They have it all… region (for example, Bourgogne Blanc, Bourgogne Rouge), district (for example, Côte de Beaune Villages, Côte de Nuits-Villages), commune (for example, Saint-Aubin, Marsannay) and single vineyard (for example, Les Ruchots). (Here is an overview of the classification system of Burgundy:). If the wines are made from their own grapes, it is noted on the label as Domaine. You can find some really nice values at the region, district and commune levels of wines for each one of these maisons. They have their footprint in almost every commune. Do the math on that. We all know that there are economies of scale here as production, shipping and marketing costs are all kept down. You benefit and you can actually find these wines in many locations.

Own it: Do what you do and do it well. Some winemakers have a foothold in one or two communes. They know their family’s terroir like nobody’s business. Instead of hearing “Good Night Moon” or “Dr. Seuss” when they were 5 years of age, they were probably hearing bedtime stories about the terroir from their grandparents. Take advantage of that. Here are the communes and smaller producers where I found quality and availability (so decent volume and aggressive importers) within our set price parameters. Use these communes as guidance for the 3 maisons I mentioned above.

REDS

(north to south)

Marsannay-la-Côte (Marsannay): This commune has no Grands Crus or Premiers Crus, but it’s relatively easy to get a tasty Marsannay for anywhere from $20-35. Typically, expect black fruits and possibly some licorice. Sometimes, these wines can be a little fruity and lighter in weight. Here are some domaines of note: Domaines Joseph Roty, Jean & Jean-Louis Trapet and Bruno Clair.
Morey-Saint-Denis: This region is nestled in between Chambolle-Musigny and Gevrey-Chambertin. (Here’s an in depth look at Morey-Saint-Denis.) It’s tough having super famous neighbors, so some of the Premiers Crus (single vineyard) offer a value proposition. You’re going to have to search, but search you must. You can find some of these for under $40. Check out Domaines Hubert Lignier, Frederic Magnien, Pierre Amiot, Arlaud, Fourrier and Heresztyn.
Savigny-lès-Beaune: Roughly 85% of what they produce is red. There are no Grands Crus, BUT there are 22 Premiers Crus and many within a $23-45 price range. It’s relatively easy to find these with a $30 handle. LOOK for them. Expect to taste red fruits, mocha and/or coffee and possibly some dusty tannins. Domaines Joseph Roty, Bruno Clair and Lignier Michelet and Maison Nicolas Potel are names to track down for value and quality.
Santenay: Located at the base of Côte de Beaune, but one of the larger communes, Santenay is known for light bodied reds, many which can be found for between $16-40. Typically, their wines are considered to be rustic, gamey, possibly with some smoke on the palate. Look for the following producers: Domaines Joseph Roty, de la Pousse d’Or, Louis Latour and Vincent Girardin; Maisons Joseph Drouhin and Nicolas Potel.
Bonus Round: Here are a few other value propositions to look for in the Côte d’Or — Chorey-lès-Beaune, Ladoix, Nuits-Saint-Georges (loads of inexpensive 1er Crus here) and Monthelie. I know I said I would focus on wines from the Côte d’Or this time around, but I can’t help but add Givry from Côte Chalonnaise to this list.

SIDEBAR: 1er cru vs. Premier Cru – When grapes from two or more Premiers Crus vineyards are blended, the label will will not state the specific Premiers Crus vineyards the grapes came from AND “1er Cru” will appear on the label in lieu of “Premier Cru.”

WHITES

(north to south)

Saint-Aubin: Nestled right by illustrious Meursault, Puligny-Montrachet and Montrachet, this commune offers outstanding values, with decent wines for $14-36. Roughly 2/3 of their production is Pinot Noir, but I really enjoy their whites. One of the wine makers I met in Burgundy jokingly referred to Saint-Aubin as the “poor man’s Montrachet” (P.S. not derogatory in any regard as this wine maker ‘fessed up to Saint-Aubin being his daily, go-to wine). It’s fairly easy to track one down for $35. Expect citrus, white flowers, stone/flint and austerity on the palate. Look for Domaines Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey, Jean Marc Morey, Jean Chartron, Jean Rijckaert and Philippe Colin.
Chassagne-Montrachet: Right next to Saint-Aubin, but slightly southeast, Chassagne shares Le Montrachet and Båtard Montrachet with Puligny-Montrachet. Look for the Villages and Premiers Crus. You can find some for around $30. Expect floral tones, intermingling citrus, light yeasty notes and minerality. These wines tend to be more rich, rounded and succulent for the entry level. Search for Domaines Faiveley, Jean Marc Morey, Frederic Magnien, Bernard Morey, Chåteau de la Maltroye, Colin Deleger and Jean-Noel Gagnard.
Beaune: There’s lots of Pinot here and 3/4 are Premiers Crus, but there are some lovely whites. Be certain to look for Maisons Louis Jadot and Bouchard and Domaines Jean Marc Boillot and Chanson.
Bonus Round: Within the Côte d’Or, also check out Saint-Romain. Even though I am focusing on the Côte d’Or for this piece, I couldn’t help but include a few others, which are also in Burgundy. From Côte Chalonnaise – Rully, Montagny. From Måconnais – Måcon (and Villages – Comte Lafond makes a Macon Milly Larmantine that rivals any 1er Crus Puligny under $100; these sell for about $25-ish. And In between Måconnais and Beaujolais – Saint-Véran

ROSÉS

Marsannay Rosés: I love Pinot Noir. I enjoy Champagne made from Pinot Noir. I enjoy Burgundy made from Pinot Noir. And guess what… I enjoy rosés made from Pinot Noir. Marsannay rocks this genre out for $20-$30 (and sometimes under $20). Expect to taste strawberries with a bit of minerality. Some names to look for are Domaines Bruno Clair and Charles Audoin.

Source: Supply and Demand curve, Wikipedia. Used under the terms of their Creative Commons License.

Burgundy – Lunch in Beaune, Wines of Morey-Saint-Denis and Calling all Mustard Freaks

Lunch in Beaune

Alas, believe it or not, a girl cannot live on wine alone.
Ma Cuisine
Passage Sainte-Hélène
21200 Beaune, France
The restaurateur from La Cantine des Sales Gosses in Lyon who is a foodie, wine lover and my sister-in-law’s friend recommended this restaurant to us. It attracts wine lovers (producers and consumers) and is frequented by locals. Family run, the staff at Ma Cuisine was unbelievably warm and easy going. Reasonably priced, the food was delish, with a wine list to match. I started with traditional escargot, which is one of the delicacies of the region, followed by really lovely skate. My husband had the Andouillette AAAAA. I know… I had to look up what all of the A’s meant too. It means Association Amicale des Amateurs d’Andouillette Authentiques which translates in ‘merican to really outstanding Andouillette sausage. We were unable to make it to Chablis on this trip to Burgundy, so we attempted to compensate by waving in a 2007 Vincent Dauvissat Chablis. It was crisp, lemony, well balanced and gentle on the palate, with a hint of green tea.

Morey-Saint-Denis

To continue our whirlwind tour of the region, we headed north toward Côte de Nuits to taste the wines of Morey-Saint-Denis. Why Morey-Saint-Denis, do you ask? It is nestled perfectly between the coveted and pricey wines of Gevrey-Chambertin and Chambolle-Musigny, but wines from Morey-Saint-Denis can offer tremendous value.

Super famous neighbors – check… Gevrey-Chambertin and Chambolle-Musigny
a few Grands Crus – check… the nerve, only 4… Gevrey has 9 (obviously, I am being completely facetious here on all accounts)
Super tiny production – check

What’s a girl to do?

Au Caveau des Vignerons

3, Place de l’Eglise, 21220 Morey-Saint Denis
caveau-des-vignerons@wanadoo.fr

The wine growers from some of these smaller production vineyards are spread really thin with their workload and don’t always have the time or the facilities to receive guests for tastings. Au Caveau des Vignerons was initiated by the local government and wine growers to showcase the wines of this specific region. There is a selection of wines available to taste, with well over a hundred wines available to purchase. Au Caveau des Vigernons carries Grand Crus, four of which are from Morey-Saint-Denis (Clos de la Roche, Clos Saint-Denis, Clos des Lambrays and Clos de Tart). They also carry the Grand Cru Bonnes Mares, which is partially located in Morey-Saint-Denis. The remainder of their Grands Crus comes from Chambertain or Chambolle-Musigny (Chapelle-Chambertin, Chambertin, Griotte-Chambertin, Charmes-Chambertin and Clos Vougeot). Caveau des Vignerons also covers Premiers Crus from Morey-Saint-Denis, Gevrey-Chambertin, Chambertain and Chambolle-Musigny. This wine store offers a great sampling of what the area has to offer and all in one convenient location.

Our tasting included three of the twenty Premiers Crus from Morey-Saint-Denis – Aux Charmes (1.17 hectares/4.3acres), Les Ruchots (2.58hectares/6.37 acres, separated from the Clos de Tart and Bonnes Mares only by a narrow road, Route des Grands Crus – again value) and Les Chaffots (2.62 hectares/6.47 acres). Clearly, you can see how tiny and fragmented the land is.

A lovely, but brutally honest woman hosted our tasting. My father-in-law had selected a few bottles at random. When we went to check out, she put a few back, exchanging those wines for wines at the same price point (and even lower), of better quality and more in tandem with his palate. We tasted many wines, but we walked away with the following 4 Premiers Crus:

Prices below are prices paid at the store and are not inclusive of shipping, taxes, etc.

2006 Morey-Saint-Denis, Les Chaffots, Domaine Michel Magnien (36,00€) located right next door to the Grand Cru Clos Saint Denis; concentrated black fruits, perfume and velvet
2007 Morey-Saint-Denis, Les Charmes, Domaine Virgile Lignier (36,00€) finesse, feminine
2006 Morey-Saint-Denis, Les Ruchots, Jean Louis Amiot (25,50€) supple
2007 Chambolle-Musigny, Aux Combottes, Domaine Alain Jeanniard (32,00€) figs, stewed fruit, pencil shavings

For the Mustard Freaks like me…

I am a complete mustard freak, so we wrapped up our day by filling up any crevice of remaining space in our suitcase not already occupied by wine with mustards. In our home, we have a shelf in the refrigerator just for mustards. C’est vrai. The variety of exceptional mustards in France is unparalleled anywhere else in the world. Although I know there is a strong contingency on team Amora, we tend to favor Maille.

Maille D’Or
12, Rue Auxonne
21000 Dijon, France
+33 3 80 65 15 26
Here’s a little secret. If you can’t make it to Dijon, they also have a boutique in Paris (6, place de la Madeleine).
We are hopeful that Unilever will not alter the Maille recipes since their purchase of this company. Dear Unilever: Don’t fix what isn’t broke. I am convinced that Maille caters to the perceived palate of their client base by altering their base recipe from country to country. I guess I have more of a French person’s palate because their mustard tastes so much better in France than in the States. They also have amazing flavors that I have not found outside of France. Some of our favorites are – moutarde au vin blanc (with white wine), au poivre (with peppercorn), aux 3 herbes (three herbs) – we always walk away with the largest size we can get of these. For the moutarde au vin blanc, vat size is available and they fill up your vat for you at the store. We also love the moutarde au Chablis et morilles (Chablis and morel mushrooms), aux pruneaux et Armagnac (prunes and Armagnac), au bleu (blue cheese), girolles, échalottes et cerfeuil (chanterelle mushrooms, shallots and chervil – parsley family) and abricot sec et curry (dried apricots and curry).

Edmond Fallot
http://www.fallot.com
To hedge our mustard portfolio, we added this brand to the mix. We were able to find the Fallot brand in boutique shops all around Dijon.

Burgundy – Domaine Jean Chartron and the 2009 Hospice de Beaune Auction

Puligny-Montrachet is “the greatest white-wine commune on earth… The top Montrachet, Chevalier and Bâtard are wines to drink on bended knee with the head beared.” Alexandre Dumas

Le Montrachet… Everybody wants a piece of it, so what’s with all of the dashes?

Le Montrachet is probably the most famous white Grand Cru. The communes of Puligny and Chassagne share this beloved Grand Cru, so they both affixed their name to it, resulting in Puligny-Montrachet (as of 1879) and Chassagne-Montrachet. Puligny and Chassagne also share the Grand Crus Bâtard-Montrachet, which is located at the bottom of the slope, and, at the top of the slope, but still within Puligny, is the Grand Crus Chevalier-Montrachet. I am going to focus on Puligny-Montrachet.

Puligny-Montrachet is only about 575 acres (230 hectares), in total. It contains 4 Grand Crus (Le Montrachet, Chevalier-Montrachet, Bâtard-Montrachet and Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet) and 13 Premiers Crus. For Le Montrachet, “part of the secret lies in the limestone, part in its perfect south east exposition, which keeps the sun from dawn till dusk.” The Oxford Companion to Wine, edited by Jancis Robinson. Chardonnay thrives here.

Domaine Jean Chartron

Grande Rue, 21190 Puligny-Montrachet
+33 3 80 21 99 19
www.bourgogne-chartron.com
I visited Burgundy in the thick of the harvest. 2009 was shaping up to be an amazing vintage, but rainstorms were imminent. Rainstorms during a harvest have the potential to destroy a vintage by making the wines too flabby. The air was full of frenetic energy and the promise of a stellar 2009. The timing of my visit was not optimal since one of my missions was to spend as much time as I could with the producers. Despite the flurry of activity, wine maker Jean-Michel Chartron from Domaine Jean Chartron graciously welcomed us to his domaine. Fifth generation and not quite 40 years old, he is now at the helm of the family business. They have just shy of 30 acres (Puligny and neighboring villages), with the majority being Premiers or Grands Crus. They are very humble about the elegance and finesse of their wines and fly just under the radar for many. This Domaine is one to watch.

I caught up with Jean-Michel again at the New York Wine Experience in late October and chatted with him once more on the phone post the Hospice de Beaune auction (see below) this past weekend. Over the course of our conversations, we discussed various vintages, the vision he has for his domaine, the region of Côte de Beaune and the Hospice de Beaune auction. His enthusiasm for wine, for his profession and for the region was both palatable and infectious each time we spoke. Jean-Michel’s vision for his wines is “to emphasize the expression of the terroir.” First and secondary fermentation of Domaine Jean Chartron’s wines occur in oak barrels, with new oak usage ranging from 10-45%. Their average barrel gets 4 years of use. With the continued emphasis on the terroir, he conveyed, “Going forward, I expect this will mean less new oak to show the fruits and the terroir, and for the viticulture, an expanded focus on our organic philosophy although we are already at 90% of our target.”

Hospice de Beaune Auction

When I spoke to Jean-Michel regarding this year’s auction, he was still pumped with the exuberance of the past weekend. “This year’s auction was nothing short of amazing. The number of barrels auctioned off was much higher than last year. If I remember correctly, it was something like 799 barrels vs. 540 from last year. Prices were stable for some and higher for others. The newspaper came out this morning quoting prices up 20.38% for 2009 vintage, which is really quite amazing. It’s a combination of (1) the auction being for charity and (2) the vintage of 2009 being an exceptional year. This year’s auction involved more private collectors than auctions of years past where it may have had more negociants. People showed a willingness to be generous.”

Hospice de Beaune sidebar: The 100 years war left many in the areas around Beaune destitute. In 1443, Duke Philippe le Bon (literally Phillip the good) and his Chancellor, Nicolas Rolin, reacted by establishing a hospital for the poor – Hôtel Dieu. Make no bones about it, wine was and still is the industry of this region. People paid for services as (and if) they could with wine or donations of wine to the hospital. Over the years, the collection became immensely impressive. The Hospice de Beaune auction, which dates back to 1859, is conducted on the third Sunday of each November and benefits the Hôtel Dieu, which is now a museum, and the Hôpital de la Charité, which still serves the medical needs of those with lesser means and the elderly of the community. Until 2005, the length of the auction was dictated by the amount of time it took for a candle placed next the auctioneer to extinguish. When the candle burned out, the auction was over. Christie’s now hosts the auction.

Tasting Notes:

Please note prices below reflect those paid directly at the vineyard and are not inclusive of taxes, importing fees, etc. I chose to taste Domaine Jean Chartron’s whites this time. All of the wines below are 100% Chardonnay.

District

2007 Bourgogne, Clos de la Combe ( 10% new oak barrels / 90% barrels aged 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5 years. Maturing on fine lees for 6 months. 9.90€) apple and pear, minerality; really nice palate cleanser, suggest as an aperitif
2007 Bourgogne, Hautes-Cotes de Beaune (Higher in altitude with 100% Barrel fermentation – 10% new oak barrels / 90% barrels aged 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5 years. Matured on fine lees for 8 months, 12.80€) hazelnut, apples, apricot, citrus

Regional

2007 Rully, Montmorin (100% barrel fermentation – 10% new oak barrels / 90% barrels aged 1, 2 and 3 years. Matured on fine lees for 8 months. 13.90€) melon, white flowers
2007 Puligny-Montrachet (100% barrel fermentation – 30% new oak barrels / 70% barrels aged 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5 years. Matured on fine lees for 9 months. 31,90€) apricot, white peaches, hazelnut, gentle

Single Vineyard, Premiers Crus

2007 Saint-Aubin Murgers, des Dents de Chien (Situated 200 meters above the famous Grand Cru Chevalier-Montrachet, it is one of the best terroirs of Saint-Aubin. 100% barrel fermentation in 25% new oak barrels, with 75% barrels aged 1, 2 and 3 years. Matured on fine lees for 10 months. 24.50€) white peaches, apricots, white flowers, elegant
2007 Puligny-Montrachet, Clos du Cailleret (100% barrel fermentation – 40% new oak barrels / 60% barrels aged 1, 2 and 3 years. Matured on fine lees for 11 months. Solely owned by the Chartron family since 1917. 48.00€) floral, elegant, creamy, flinty with beautiful minerality and a hint of lime zest – this one lingered on my tongue forever

What did I buy, why and what would I pair it with?

Turkey day is coming up for those in the States; I’d pick any one of of these as a white-wine option. A deliciously baked, juicy herbed chicken would be so yummy too. Also, wave in any goat cheese to go with any one of the wines below.

2007 Bourgogne, Hautes-Côtes de Beaune
2007 Puligny-Montrachet: This was my second fav from this domaine we tasted.
2007 Saint-Aubin Murgers, des Dents de Chien
2007 Clos du Cailleret: This was my favorite one that I tasted from this domaine. I loved the finish, minerality and complexity. I make a mean scallop and pumpkin risotto. This would be an unbelievable pairing.

Burgundy – Les Domaines Bouchard Père & Fils

Les Domaines Bouchard Père et Fils

15, rue de Château – 21200 Beaune
+33 3 80 24 80 24
www.bouchard-pereetfils.com chateau
On a perfectly crisp autumn day, I visited Domaine Bouchard, which is located within the regal 15th century Château de Beaune. Domaine Bouchard includes 4,000 square meters (13,123 square feet) of cellars (yes, this is not a typo) and 321 acres of vineyards (33 acres of Grands Crus and 183 acres of Premiers Crus). Oui, c’est vrai mes amis, Bouchard Père et Fils is massive. Yet, as gargantuan as they are, they hosted each guest with the utmost warmth and intimacy. This also holds true for the care in which they craft their wines. Despite their historical contributions to wine as a whole and their Burgundian legacy, Bouchard exhibited nothing but humility and true passion for wine. If you plan a trip to Burgundy, a visit to Bouchard is mandatory.

History

Their colorful history dates back to 1731 when a family of cloth merchants, who used to sell wines as they were traveling to and from the north of France, realized that selling wine was by far more lucrative than their cloth trade. So in 1731, they packed up the cart and moved to Burgundy to focus on wine full time. They were extremely successful in their new wine venture and in 1810, the family was able to purchase the Château de Beaune, a castle that had been used by the King of France to monitor and establish control of Burgundy, a region which had been independent from France.

The château and all of its contents (including the massive cellars stocked with elegant wine) were seized by the Nazis during the occupation of France in WWII. The Nazis loved good wine and helped themselves to as much as they could get their hands on. However, someone had the foresight to put a fake wall in front of the older part of the cellar, so the great library of wines was preserved. How fantastic is that?

My husband’s grandfather Pépé Tin was in a Nazi camp during the occupation of France. Years later, whenever he would open a good bottle of wine, he’d smile, have a sip and say “that’s another one the Nazis won’t get.” As a result of someone outsmarting the Nazis, the museum section boasts of a decent volume of older wines, with 2 bottles dating back to 1846 (1 Chablis and 1 Meursault Charmes). Christie’s recently auctioned off one of these older bottles (1864 Montrachet) for 10,300€. These wines have been maintained in the proper temperature and handled gingerly, so, despite their age and fragility, they are indeed drinkable. Interestingly, for these older and treasured bottles of wine, to ensure the preservation, Bouchard changes the corks every 20 to 25 years. Isabelle Philipe, External Relations Manager for Bouchard, shared the following with me, “The oenologist tastes only one bottle (of the lot for that year) and uses it refill the other ones and then puts new corks. The bottle we use to refill the other ones is of course from the same appellation and same vintage. We carry out this changing of corks regularly the whole year long, which represents thousands of bottles each year.”

Presently, the château stores 2.5 million bottles. By the way, there’s another 2.5-3 million bottles stored in at their logistical plant in Savigny lès Beaune, which rotate quickly as orders get filled. At the plant, they bottle, label and ship, but it is not open to the public. Each year, Bouchard produces 3-3.5 million bottles of wine, with about 18% coming from their own domaines. The bulk of their production comes from acting in their capacity as negociant. Bouchard exports 52% of their production, with the residual 48% remaining in France. That’s 1.5 million bottles to the Frenchies each year! Clearly the French imbibe what Bouchard produces. Bouchard shared with us that typically, a winery in this region can export around 70% of their production. They just opened their tasting room in the château 3 months ago.

When you are established, you can do and say whatever you want. You’ve earned that right and if people don’t like it, who cares. Sometimes, you end up setting the standard. My friend Premila has a friend with a 96 year old grandmother. She keeps her garage stocked with liquor (just in case there’s another depression and she needs to barter). Everyday at 5PM, she has a cocktail. If she happens to be en route to someplace at 5PM, she packs a traveler for her daily ritual. (She is no longer able to drive – so don’t fret). Bouchard is one of the granddaddies of Burgundy. They are established can do whatever they want. That’s the way it is. I love wine, but like so many things in life, some get caught up in pompous and stuffy rules. Or, they blindly follow the leader instead of marching to the beat of their own drum. While there is often logic with many of the guidelines with wine, keep in mind, first and foremost, it is meant to be enjoyed. You can make your own rules sometimes. Tastings at Bouchard start with red wines and end with white (so reverse of convention). Our guide at Bouchard stated, “It’s the way we’ve always done it and we are determined to keep it this way.” They prefer for palates to end on a light and clean note, rather then “laden with tannins.”

Tasting Notes

(Please note, because Bouchard exports a significant volume of wine in countries all over the world with various import fees and taxes. As such, they have asked that I not display the prices for the wines we tasted at the site, so prices have been deliberately omitted below.)
Reds (100% Pinot Noir)

2003 Côte de Beaune Villages Rouge (negociant) strawberries, vanilla, minerality, fruity, tannins; heat of 2003 shows
2000 Beaune Marconets Premier Cru (Domaine Bouchard) cherries, decent tannins, freshly cut wood
2001 Corton Renardes Grand Cru (Domaine Bouchard) cherries, tobacco, slight hint of coconut and leather with some mushrooms; very pleasant color and finish; ready to drink now

Whites (100% Chardonnay)

2003 Beaune (Domaine Bouchard) melons, fresh, creme soda, minerality
2006 Meursault Premier Cru (negociant) hazelnut, creme soda; I wrote the word “love” next this one.
2003 Beaune du Château Blanc Premier Cru (Domaine Bouchard – a blending of various Premiers Crus from Beaune) creme soda, apples, honeysuckle
1997 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru (Domaine Bouchard) apples, honey dew melons, jasmine, minerality, elegant finish

What did I buy, why and what would I pair it with?

We purchased all of the wines at a very good price compared to what we’d pay in the States. Luckily, I have a father-in-law who happily offered to store our wine in France for us.

2001 Corton Renardes Grand Cru – I’ve always said Pinot Noir is everyone’s friend. It goes with almost everything and offends no one. Fish, chicken, duck, pork, red meat… it’s all good with all of the above. This Grand Cru had complexity with a silky finish.
2003 Côte de Beaune Villages – I just couldn’t beat the complexity and minerality for this price point. They already aged it for me. What can I say? With that fresh melon and minerality, shellfish and fish would go very nicely and it wouldn’t break the bank.
2006 Meursault Premier Cru – I am thinking a perfectly butter poached lobster for this guy, although I think it could hold its own paired with a juicy roasted chicken with savory herbs, duck (because of that bit of apple) and fish. We had this wine with a butter nut squash soup over the weekend. The rosemary and sage in the soup was spectacular with this wine. I did write the word “love” next to it while I was tasting… enough said.

Burgundy – Côte de Nuits and Côte de Beaune

September 2009

“Every now and then, we are lucky enough to encounter Burgundy which sets our hearts afire.” Clive Coates, Master of Wine, Côte D’Or, A Celebration of the Great Wines of Burgundy,

Vintages

2007: “A unique year… 2007 was another extraordinary year of such advanced growth that we had to begin harvesting in August… At the moment… our red wines are… well structured, ample and rich. Barrel aging has enabled this fruity and balanced vintage to evolve well. Our white wines are expressing floral and fruity notes. They are ripe with good freshness and backbone. 2007 is a year in which the terroir overrides the expression of the grape variety. The barrel aging has permitted them to express the best of their typicity,” affirmed Bouchard Père & Fils. Jean-Michel Chartron, who runs Domaine Jean Chartron in Puligny-Montrachet commented, “2007 vintage is opposite to the rich, round and easy to drink young 2006 vintage indeed, but it looks more classic to me. Real lovers of white Burgundy might prefer the freshness and precision of 2007s.”

2008: “A promising vintage… difficult weather conditions throughout the year which led to widespread outbreaks of mildew, odium and botrytis… The Pinots had reached good maturity and great concentration thanks to the excellent weather conditions, which returned on 15th September, giving plenty of sunshine and a beneficial drying North wind. (As for) the Chardonnays… the characteristics of the terrors will outweigh the varietal aspect of the wines,” noted Bouchard Père & Fils. Jean-Michel Chartron observed “2008, because of early blooming and rainy summer, is really a tough vintage. The key to the success was hard work in the vineyard to avoid any development of mildew and odium and waiting a long time for a good maturity as the sun shined only from late August on. Those who waited until early-mid October to harvest did very nice wines, thanks to the lovely Indian summer that we had then.”

2009: Just coming off the most recent harvest, Jean-Michel Chartron pointed out “2009 looks much easier as the good weather during the whole summer enabled a perfect maturity and a great balance between sugar and acidity. The wines are now still fermenting and look very promising.”

Terroir = Location + Climate + Varietals

Location

Burgundy is a wine region in France that includes Chablis, Côte de Nuits, Côte de Beaune, Chalonnaise, Mâconnais and Beaujolais. The majority of Burgundy is a narrow strip of land north of Lyon and south of Dijon, straddling Beaune. I recently visited this part of Burgundy (Côte de Beaune and Côte de Nuits), so this will be the focus. If I have my way, this will be a recurring trip, so Mémé Néna, Tata Michelle, Tata Jeanette and Tonton Jeannot, be careful what you wished for.

In some regards, most of Burgundy is so much smaller than it seems on a map. The heart of Burgundy is only about 40km (25 miles) long. Inclusive of many stops along the way (mandatory for tastings), from base to tip, it is completely drivable within a few hours time. Most Burgundian wines are either 100% Pinot Noir or 100% Chardonnay, so that adds to the ease of understanding these wines. It’s the sheer number of individual vineyards that makes Burgundy so difficult and confusing.

Lots and Lots of Small Plots
Prior to the French Revolution, either the church or nobility owned most of the land in Burgundy. The French Revolution was both anti-church and anti-aristocracy (“let them eat cake” reverberates in the background), so properties of the church and nobility were seized and sold off. The Napoleonic Code revamped inheritance laws, forcing equal division of property as opposed to the prior law that left all property to the eldest son. From generation to generation, and heir to heir, the land became increasingly fragmented. As a result, much of Burgundy is a whole bunch of small vineyards, all with distinct names (“lieu-dit” or said place), registered at city hall.

Classification

Think of the classification system in Burgundy as a giant triangle, with the base of the triangle being the bottom of the hierarchy (and greatest volume by production) and the top consisting of the highest quality (and lowest volume by production). From top to bottom, this is how it would look:

Single Vineyard ACs – (1) Grands Crus or (2) Premiers Crus (ex. Corton and Puligny-Montrachet, Les Combettes, respectively)
Communal ACs (specific village, ex. Puligny-Montrachet)
District ACs (specific district, ex. Côte de Beaune Villages)
Regional ACs (ex. Bourgogne Rouge AC)

France categorizes their wines by terroir – so, for higher quality wines (Grands Crus and Premiers Crus), each is an appellation in its own right, and the wines are categorized as such – so not by wine maker, not by Domaine, not by varietal, but rather, by the distinct parcel of land that the grapes come from. The names of the Premiers Crus are known by the name of the village first, with the name of the distinct site following, whereas Grands Crus are known exclusively by their distinct site and nothing else is required. It can get very confusing if old world classification is not the logic you are familiar with. Throw another language into the equation, along with the sheer magnitude of distinct plots (32 Grands Crus and 562 Premiers Crus), and it’s a mouthful.

Let’s think of the Burgundy classification in a different context. If you were to reside in the United States, Regional AC wines would be wines coming from anywhere within the state you lived in. I live in New York, so for me, the wine could come from anywhere in the state of New York – maybe New York city, maybe Albany, maybe both. Maybe it’s good, maybe it’s not. All I know is that the wine is made in the State of New York and it would be classified as “State of New York.”

At the District AC level, the wine could come from anywhere in New York County – the West Village, Chelsea, Tribeca, the Upper East side, etc.. The wine would be classified as “New York County.”

At the Communal level, we know the wine could come from one or more distinct plots of land within the commune. Using our New York example, let’s say the wine came from one or more places in the West Village. The wine would be classified as “West Village.” Note: There are some instances where a Communal level wine could come from a single vineyard. In this instance, it would be noted on the label, but in smaller font size than the name of the village.

Wine from Single Vineyard ACs comes from one distinct plot of land. The names of the Premiers Crus are known by the name of the village first, with the name of the distinct site following (ex. Beaune du Château Blanc – Beaune is the village and the distinct plot of land is Château Blanc). There are distinct, but numerous (only 562) plots of land, at the Premiers Crus level. So, using our New York example, the wine would be classified as “West Village, Bleecker Street.”

The Grands Crus are at the top of the triangle and are known exclusively by their geographical distinction. By law, nothing else is required since there are only 32 (ex. Clos de Vougeots – There is no mention of a village. That one specific plot of land is how it is classified). Since the Grands Crus are distinct entities, using our New York example, the wine would be classified as “Time Warner Center.” To add to the confusion, a Grand Cru, such as Clos de Vougeots, consists of about 124 acres with about 82 owners. The Time Warner Center has a ton of restaurants, bars and shops. In our example, how do we know which restaurants, bars and shops make the best wines? Even though the wines wouldn’t be classified by the names of the restaurants, bars and shops, the wines would still have that name on the label. In all examples mentioned, when examining how the wine is classified, maybe the wine is good, maybe it’s not. This is when we examine the label to see who the wine maker (or negociant) is. In each of the examples above, even though wines would not be classified by the estate or the wine maker, the name of the producer is listed on the label and aids with quality control, it’s just not how it’s classified.

Most experts feel that 90% of the wine we consume has to do with the possibilities of the terroir – location, climate and varietal(s) – so the focus should be on the terroir. The location will always remain static. Don’t get frustrated. It just requires a different thought process. The wines are so yummy, so the payoff exists. On the flip side, if I asked most of my French family which varietals they liked, they’d shrug their shoulders. They know they like Burgundian wines. (They stick with these wines because it is what they know. Why fix something that isn’t broken?) However, they wouldn’t be able to tell you that they like Pinot Noir or Chardonnay. They know the wines they love by location exclusively. It’s not wrong or right; it’s just a different school of thought.

Soil:
Côte de Nuits and Côte de Beaune are separated into two parts around the town of Beaune, Côte de Nuits to the north and Côte de Beaune to the south. Côte de Beaune produces about 57% red and 43% white wine* (but 7 of the 8 Grands Crus in Côte de Beaune produce white) and Côte de Nuits primarily consists of reds. Back in the days of the dinosaurs, most of Burgundy was under water, resulting in lots of small fossils that are omnipresent in the soil there today. As a result, the soil is well drained, and limestone rich. There is also some clay, and minerals such as iron, magnesium and lead.

Climate

Burgundy has a continental climate with four seasons. Winters are frigidly cold and summers are fairly warm.

Varietals, that’s “Easy Breezy”

Most Burgundian wines are comprised of either 100% Pinot Noir or 100% Chardonnay. From time to time, you might see Aligote or Muscadet, but Pinot Noir and Chardonnay rule the majestic Côte de Beaune and Côte de Nuits. Further south in Beaujolais, Gamay rules.

Chardonnay – Generally speaking, most of the Chardonnays in the Côte de Beaune go through malolactic fermentation (often referred to as secondary fermentation), which is the process of converting harsh malic acids into softer, milky acids. Wines are barrel rather than steel aged. This is why these Chardonnays have that buttery, creamy, hazelnut flavor rather than the steely (but still so lovely) wines of Chablis, which are also 100% Chardonnay, but aged in steel tanks. Chardonnay just can’t get enough of the limestone soils of the Côte de Beaune, which contributes to that fantastic lingering minerality. Chardonnay thrives when there is less clay, so toward the top of slope in the Côte de Beaune is optimal.
Pinot Noir – Think red fruits here – cherry, raspberry and strawberry. Over time, throw in the possibly of cedar, sandalwood, some cigar box, gamey and vegetal notes. These grapes are thin skinned and very sensitive to rot. This past year, we happened to be there during the harvest and it started to rain, so every possible warm body was out in the field frenetically working. Pinots are worshiped for their finesse and elegance. During fermentation, some use wild and natural yeasts often resulting in that barnyardy, old world funk (which I LOVE). Pinot thrives in the limy marl (clays, calcium and magnesium carbonates) present in this area.

What’s Next?

In Côte de Nuits and Côte de Beaune, vines are very densely planted. With a competitive root system, the plant digs deeper into the soil and gets those nice, minerally elements. Vines are trained along low wires and primarily use the single guyot pruning system (a single, horizontal cane from the trunk).

In the feature articles to follow, I am going to profile:

Bouchard Père & Fils – a massive, historic and amazing domaine; 130 hectares (321 acres), with 12 hectares (30 acres) of Grand Crus and 74 hectares (183 acres) of Premiers Crus extending throughout Côte de Beaune and Côte de Nuits, so both white and red wines
Domaine Jean-Chartron – located in Puligny-Montrachet; 12 hectares (30 acres) of Grands Crus and Premiers Crus in Puligny, gorgeous white wines)
Wines from the I tasted from Côte de Nuits (reds) at a lovely wine bar in Morey Saint-Denis
What fabulous Burgundies can you pick up from your local wine store for under $40?

As an aside, there’s a lot of material I’ve learned over time from books, tests, tasting, meeting with wine makers and others in the business, etc. which I have jammed in my head. I must reference Côte D’Or, A Celebration of the Great Wines of Burgundy, by Clive Coates, Master of Wine. His book is the most comprehensive one I’ve read on Burgundy. His “tell it like it is” style is refreshingly honest, without the gimmicks or obsequious comments many other wine writers make. If you have a passion for these wines, this is the book you should pick up.

*source Certified Specialist of Wine Study Guide