Tough to be me… I was invited to a tasting of 1990 Grands Crus at Bar Boulud hosted by Jason Hyde from Acker, Merrall & Condit Company. Alongside a vivacious cast of characters with a deep love for Burgundy, we shared and discussed a few of these very coveted and pricey 20 year old wines while having an extremely vocal and passionate debate over our top picks for BBQ and burgers in New York City. Nothing seems to go down in New York without a little friendly competition, so after each flight, we went around the room and voted for the best. The “winners” are denoted below by a star.
The result of ideal weather conditions, the 1990 vintage of Burgundy is hyped, highly sought after and considered by many to be one of Burgundy’s more successful vintages. Overall, while I enjoyed the wines immensely, I found the fruit to be a little more on the stewed side, rather than fresh, which is right on par with the vintage and the heat of that summer.
Flight 1: Chambolle-Musigny
- Jacques Frederic Mugnier Musigny (auction price $700-1000) red berries and minerality, sweetness, cabbage
- Vogue Bonnes-Mare (auction price $300-500) mushroomy, but tended to fade quicker than we thought it should
- *Hubert Lignier Clos de la Roche (auction price $500-700) WS 92/RP 95, wild strawberries, very round, cabbage on the nose
Flight 2: Gevrey-Chambertin
- *Georges Mugneret Ruchottes-Chambertin (auction price $200-300) WS 93, cherries, elegance, lovely balance, impressive and lingering finish
- Jadot Chambertin Clos de Bèze (auction price $200-400) WS 92, full and deep color with a savage and profound nose
- Ponsot Griotte Chambertin (auction price $400-600) RP 94, full color, silky, but fruity, hints of dill pickles
Flight 3: Gevrey-Chambertin/Vosne-Romanée
- Armand Rousseau Mazis Chambertin (auction price $200-300) strawberries, molasses, stewed fruit
- Roty Charmes Chambertin Vielles Vignes (auction price $500-700) cherries, classic
- *Mongeard-Mugneret Grands Échézeaux (auction price $200-250) classic Vosne spice on the nose; palate showed plenty of richness and depth; There was a little bit of old world funk that took a while to blow off for this one, but once it breathed, it was so lovely and my favorite of the flight.
Flight 4: Vosne-Romanée
- Gros Frères Richebourg (auction price $250-350) cherries, stewed fruit, dusty
- Domaine Emmanuel Rouget Échézeaux (auction price $550-750) cherries, earthy with a little old world funk (which I love)
- *1991 Domaine de la Romanée Conti Échézeaux (auction price $550-650) WS 93; smooth with raspberry, plum and currant notes; I get the price and the hype, but not everyone can swing this. It was a special treat.
These wines were such a special treat and I’d like to thank Mike once again.
And now… my two cents worth on Burgers and BBQ
For those who are curious to hear my top burger and BBQ picks in NY, I realize that I can’t leave you hanging. I am reluctant to put down my NY faves for restaurants because there are so many that I love; however, this is a true slam-dunk for the burgers, so I am rolling with it. Hands down, my vote for the best burger in New York is the The Spotted Pig, with the second prize going to The Burger Joint – completely different experiences, but both worth every morsel. And for BBQ, I enjoy MANY places in NY, but I would do a cartwheel if someone shipped me ribs from Corky’s in Memphis (with a side of mustard slaw). And… I have to say that when I make “my own” recipe, (well, not really my own – and a different style altogether), there have been friendly fights for the last rib.
Chinese-Hawaiian “Barbecued” Ribs
Gourmet Magazine, May 2003
¾ cup sugar
½ cup soy sauce
½ cup ketchup
¼ cup Sherry, medium-dry
1 teaspoon salt
1 garlic clove, smashed
1 ginger, (1-inch) cube peeled fresh, smashed
3 lb baby back pork ribs (3 racks), do not cut apart
Stir together sugar, soy sauce, ketchup, Sherry and salt in a bowl until sugar
is dissolved. Pour marinade into a roasting pan, then add garlic, ginger, and
ribs, turning ribs to coat with marinade. Marinate, covered and chilled,
turning occasionally, at least 3 hours.