“London Calling”

“You’ve come a long way baby,” Virginia Slims campaign slogan.

My criterion for a good food city is one that has amazing food at every price point. Here are some examples that quickly come to mind: New Orleans – you can get a po-boy at a gas station and it’s actually really good (no lie); New York – how easy is it to get a great slice (pizza)? Full disclosure, I consider both of these places to be home.

I visited London recently and benefited from the culinary explosion which has been going down there over the past few years. True, London has been home to food institutions such as River Café for many years. [A little background on River Café: It is the brain child of Ruth Rogers and Rose Grey (who unfortunately passed away this year) and it later provided us with extraordinarily talented chefs such as April Bloomfield (Executive Chef of one of my absolute faves of all times and a truly special place for me for many reasons- The Spotted Pig) and Jamie Oliver.] However, when I first started dating my husband, and we were doing the NY-Heathrow route back and forth, I felt London did pricey well, but found a dearth of quality mid-point restaurants.

This is by no means my “end all, be all” London list and it definitely includes some “fancy” places, but I truly hope to experience more of what London has to offer soon. Enjoy.

TAPAS

Fino

Charlotte Street/W1
33 Charlotte Street
020-7813-8010
Fino offers great tapas and Spanish hams. Maybe it’s because I’m ‘Merican and really great Spanish ham is more difficult to come by in the States (thanks FDA), but the the lomo was one of my favorites. The garlic gambas and grilled squid – um, we got seconds on both. Fino is a perfectly simple, not too flashy setting with great food.

The Providores & Tapa Room

Marylebone/W1
109 Marylebone High Street
020-7935-6175
Think “Kiwi” dishes with a dash of Asia. The portions are smaller sized, making this gem of a restaurant a wonderful experience to sample a variety of dishes without feeling too full. It also proudly showcases what New Zealand can do in the wine world, especially in the Pinot Noir genre. Contrary to what I read from other reviews prior to going, I found the service to be lovely.

FRENCH

La Fromagerie

Marylebone/W1
2-6 Moon Street
020-7935-0341
Cheese, glorious cheese… New Yorkers, think a subdued version of Murray’s Cheese. There is a sit down area for amazing for lite bites such as cheeses, charcuterie, salads and tarts OR visit the cheese room to take treats home.

The Beehive

Marylebone/W1
126 Crawford Street
020-7486-8037
Don’t bother with a menu. Just get the Côte de Boeuf and thank me for it later. (Thank Seb and Laurence too). The Beehive also has a decent beer selection.

L’Autre Pied

Marylebone/W1
5-7 Blandford Street
020-7486-9696
This is one of the most reasonably priced tasting menus I’ve had in a while. The chef is an absolute perfectionist and I can’t wait to go back. The presentation was gorgeous and elegant. It has one Michelin star and was voted the best new restaurant by Time Out in 2008.

Club Gascon

Farringdon
57 West Smithfield
020-7796-0600
This is possibly our favorite restaurant in London. On our layover to Nairobi, we took a car one hour + into the city to have lunch here just because. Does that make me a freak? They have a foie gras menu. Who does that? Add this as a course to your meal. If they have the sort of crystallized grapes with the grilled foie gras, be certain to have it. It’s heavenly and you will fantasize about it long after you’ve left. If there are morels in any dish on the menu, wave that in as well. This is a special occasion kind of place. Everyone who has dined here upon our suggestion told us it was his or her favorite dining experience in London.

MEDITERRANEAN

Ottolenghi

Islington/N1
287 Upper Street
020-7288-1454
Yotam Ottolenghi, an Israeli Jew, Sami Tamimi, an Arab from East Jerusalem and Noam Bar, who spent time in a Buddhist Monastery… how can you possibly go wrong with this combination? Maybe they can team up and teach the rest of the world how something beautiful can be created by differences? A healthful, elegant and unadulterated approach to Mediterranean cooking, Ottolenghi boasts wonderful and flavorful salads, breads and pastries for consumption on premises (only at their Islington location) or take away. I perused their cookbook Ottolenghi: The Cookbook… absolutely fantastic.

INDIAN

If there’s one thing the Brits have done well – it’s their importation of fabulous curries. Yes, my British readers, importation. But, we understand the desire to stake your claim. It’s good stuff and if you didn’t claim the curries as your own (wink wink), you’d be stuck with mushy peas, roasts — but you do fish and chips, some cheeses and beer really well. To my other readers, if you didn’t hit at least one Indian restaurant while in London – even if you’re not that much of an Indian food fan – you might get castigated as an Anglophobe. The Brits take “their Indian” very seriously.

Bombay Brasserie

South Kensington/SW7
Courtfield Road
020-7370-4040
If you’re seeking a scene, this is not the place. However, if you want the real deal in terms of Indian cuisine, this place is just solid and offers an experience from all regions of India.

Trishna

Marylebone/W1
15-17 Blandford Street
020-7935-5624
This is more upscale or “fancy” Indian, but the lamb curry… HELLO – I can’t wait to go back.

SUSHI

Nobu

Mayfair/W1
15 Berkeley Street
020-7290-9222
I have no idea how Nobu has done it all these years with multiple locations globally, but they have consistently achieved grande dame status of chain restaurants. If it is a scene you seek, this is the place. Drinks, dinner, scene… you really can’t go wrong. You might even see a few starlets having sakitinis.

Roka

Charlotte/W1
37 Charlotte Street
020-7580-6464
The skewered meat and seafood were tender to the touch and very flavorful. The sushi and sashimi were fabulously fresh. Roka is a decent scene just for drinks as well. My only criticism would be that they sometimes try to turn tables too quickly by bringing out everything at once. Beat them to the punch by stating in advance that you want them to bring your food out in courses.

Special thanks to Laurence, Seb and Domenico for their suggestions. We can’t wait to try the others on your short lists.

1990 Burgundy Grands Crus Tasting, Burgers and BBQ

Tough to be me…  I was invited to a tasting of 1990 Grands Crus at Bar Boulud hosted by Jason Hyde from Acker, Merrall & Condit Company. Alongside a vivacious cast of characters with a deep love for Burgundy, we shared and discussed a few of these very coveted and pricey 20 year old wines while having an extremely vocal and passionate debate over our top picks for BBQ and burgers in New York City. Nothing seems to go down in New York without a little friendly competition, so after each flight, we went around the room and voted for the best. The “winners” are denoted below by a star.

The result of ideal weather conditions, the 1990 vintage of Burgundy is hyped, highly sought after and considered by many to be one of Burgundy’s more successful vintages. Overall, while I enjoyed the wines immensely, I found the fruit to be a little more on the stewed side, rather than fresh, which is right on par with the vintage and the heat of that summer.

Flight 1: Chambolle-Musigny

  • Jacques Frederic Mugnier Musigny (auction price $700-1000) red berries and minerality, sweetness, cabbage
  • Vogue Bonnes-Mare (auction price $300-500) mushroomy, but tended to fade quicker than we thought it should
  • *Hubert Lignier Clos de la Roche (auction price $500-700) WS 92/RP 95, wild strawberries, very round, cabbage on the nose

Flight 2: Gevrey-Chambertin

Flight 3: Gevrey-Chambertin/Vosne-Romanée

  • Armand Rousseau Mazis Chambertin (auction price $200-300) strawberries, molasses, stewed fruit
  • Roty Charmes Chambertin Vielles Vignes (auction price $500-700) cherries, classic
  • *Mongeard-Mugneret Grands Échézeaux (auction price $200-250) classic Vosne spice on the nose; palate showed plenty of richness and depth; There was a little bit of old world funk that took a while to blow off for this one, but once it breathed, it was so lovely and my favorite of the flight.

Flight 4: Vosne-Romanée

  • Gros Frères Richebourg (auction price $250-350) cherries, stewed fruit, dusty
  • Domaine Emmanuel Rouget Échézeaux (auction price $550-750) cherries, earthy with a little old world funk (which I love)
  • *1991 Domaine de la Romanée Conti Échézeaux (auction price $550-650) WS 93; smooth with raspberry, plum and currant notes; I get the price and the hype, but not everyone can swing this. It was a special treat.

These wines were such a special treat and I’d like to thank Mike once again.

And now… my two cents worth on Burgers and BBQ

For those who are curious to hear my top burger and BBQ picks in NY, I realize that I can’t leave you hanging. I am reluctant to put down my NY faves for restaurants because there are so many that I love; however, this is a true slam-dunk for the burgers, so I am rolling with it. Hands down, my vote for the best burger in New York is the The Spotted Pig, with the second prize going to The Burger Joint – completely different experiences, but both worth every morsel. And for BBQ, I enjoy MANY places in NY, but I would do a cartwheel if someone shipped me ribs from Corky’s in Memphis (with a side of mustard slaw). And… I have to say that when I make “my own” recipe, (well, not really my own – and a different style altogether), there have been friendly fights for the last rib.

Chinese-Hawaiian “Barbecued” Ribs
Gourmet Magazine, May 2003
¾ cup sugar
½ cup soy sauce
½ cup ketchup
¼ cup Sherry, medium-dry
1 teaspoon salt
1 garlic clove, smashed
1 ginger, (1-inch) cube peeled fresh, smashed
3 lb baby back pork ribs (3 racks), do not cut apart

Stir together sugar, soy sauce, ketchup, Sherry and salt in a bowl until sugar
is dissolved. Pour marinade into a roasting pan, then add garlic, ginger, and
ribs, turning ribs to coat with marinade. Marinate, covered and chilled,
turning occasionally, at least 3 hours.